October 1, 2019
9am - 6pm
JEWELRY IN HISTORY
L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, is organizing its first study day on Tuesday, October 1, 2019. It brings together young researchers who are working on jewelry from a historical perspective. Expected to become an annual event, this first edition showcases the vitality of research into jewelery topics in Master’s and PhD programs. The results of the study day will be published. A second study day, this time devoted to gemology, will be held at L’ÉCOLE on January 9, 2020.
STUDY DAY INTRODUCTION
9.00-9.30 am Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels
Marie Vallanet-Delhom, President of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
Guillaume Glorieux, Director of Education and Research at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
I. HISTORICAL FIGURES
9.30 - 10.00 am Jewelry negotiation in the 17th century: Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605-1689), traveler and itinerant merchant
Cécile Lugand, Doctor of Art History, University of Rennes 2 – L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, professor and researcher at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
10.00 - 10.30 am A source of information on the profession of jeweler in the 18th century: the correspondence of Louis-David Duval (1727-1788) in Saint Petersburg Vincent Chenal, Doctor of Art History, University of Geneva
10.30 - 11.00 am Pierre Sterlé, high jeweler or jeweler, manufacturer or retailer? Reflections on the production and status of a designer and their Maison in the 20th century Marion Mouchard, Master 2 student in Art History, Sorbonne University
11.00 - 11.15 am Break
II. CREATIONS AND USES
11.15 - 11.45 am Parures and jewelry in royal and princely tombs (1300-1500)
Morgane Langlois, Master 2 student in Art History, Sorbonne University
11.45 am - 12.15 pm Historic stage jewelry: a little-known objet d’art
Anaëlle Gobinet-Choukroun, PhD student in Art History, University of Strasbourg
12.15 - 12.30 pm Discussion
12.30 - 2.00 pm Lunch
2.00 - 2.30 pm From the Nécessaire to the Minaudière at Van Cleef & Arpels during the Art Deco period: use, development and techniques Alix Ricard, holder of a Master 1 in Art History, University of Toulouse II – Jean Jaurès, Master 2 student in the Art Market, University of Paris 1 – Panthéon Sorbonne
2.30 - 3.00 pm Jewelry at the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts
Florie Sou, holder of a Master 1 in Art History, Sorbonne University, Master 2 student in Art Market and Artistic Heritage Law, University of Paris 2 – Panthéon Assas
3.00 - 3.30 pm Pearl merchants: rediscovering a trade saga between the Arabo-Persian Gulf and France at the dawn of the 20th century
Léonard Pouy, Doctor of Art History, Sorbonne University and the University of Geneva, professor and researcher at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
3.30 - 3.45 pm Break
III. JEWELRY AT THE INTERSECTION OF THE ARTS
3.45 - 4.15 pm When jewelry tells its story: jewelry and literature in the 19th century
Charline Coupeau, Doctor of Art History, University of Bordeaux – Montaigne
4.15 - 4.45 pm The representation of Jewelry in 19th-century paintings, from the Second Empire to the 1900s
Camille Wattez-Lecourt, étudiante en Master 1 d’histoire de l’art, université de Rennes 2 – Haute Bretagne
4.45 - 5.15 pm Creative dialogues between dance and jewelry: the Van Cleef & Arpels Ballerinas and their choreographic context
Anne Poydenot de Pontonx, Master 2 student in Art History, University of Paris-Nanterre
5.15 - 6.00 pm Discussion and conclusion
L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
Founded in 2012 with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts aims to share jewelry culture with the widest possible audience.
It is an introductory school, open to all, with no prerequisites. L’ÉCOLE is aimed at novices as well as enlightened enthusiasts, from jewelry collectors to the simply curious. Since its creation, L’ÉCOLE has already welcomed more than thirty thousand students from some forty countries, aged from 18 to 83.
L’ÉCOLE offers courses in three main fields (the art history of jewelry, the world of gemstones, and savoir-faire), and it also organizes talks, publishes books and catalogs and regularly holds exhibitions in Paris and abroad. It also offers other activities, such as creative workshops for children and teenagers, and meetings with writers and exhibition curators.
Around twenty classes are taught each month in French, English or Chinese by around fifty professors, art historians, gemologists, jewelers and craftsmen. Classes, lasting four hours, are taught by two teachers to groups of six to twelve students, in order to offer optimum learning conditions as well as to encourage conviviality, dialogue and sharing. The program is à la carte and each student is free to choose one or more classes depending on their interests and curiosity.
The courses are based on practical application. Students experiment with skills, know-how and tools, guided by their teachers. In art history, they have the privilege of seeing historic jewelry from L’ÉCOLE’s collections, and in gemology classes they can observe stones using a gemologist’s instruments.
L’ÉCOLE is located in the Hôtel de Ségur, a private mansion in Paris built in the early 18th century by architect Jacques V Gabriel, a stone’s throw from Place Vendôme, which has been the historic heart of French jewelry for over a century. From its inception, L’ÉCOLE has been open to an international audience. It travels abroad on average twice a year, to America, Asia and the Middle East, for itinerant sessions lasting two to three weeks.
This autumn, a second permanent campus opens, this time in Hong Kong, at the heart of the design district in West Kowloon. Facing the bay of Hong Kong, within the K11 Musea, L’ÉCOLE occupies a light-filled space designed and developed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto.
Finally, L’ÉCOLE is involved in research, initiating several research programs, some of which are linked to prestigious institutions (such as the French National Museum of Natural History and the Comédie-Française), and creating research Master’s bursaries and launching its first study days.