22/02/2019

Expositions

L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts presents  Birds in Paradise EXHIBITION FROM MAY 15 TO JULY 13 2019   

L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts presents Birds in Paradise from May 15 to July 13. This original exhibition showcases a selection of iconic brooches loaned by two private collectors and from the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels Heritage Collection. These brooches will be exhibited in a setting evocative of a birds’ paradise and will reflect the popularity of representations of birds, vibrant delicate creatures that act as a link between earth and sky. These pieces foster a dialogue with some remarkable patrimonial works, on special loan from the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and the Cité de la céramique - Sèvres et Limoges.

 

Paradis d’Oiseaux” (“Birds in Paradise”)

The increase in the representation of birds in jewelry from the late 19th century onwards echoes the penchant for decorative naturalism, then highly popular in interior decoration. Many of the naturalia collections developed by natural history enthusiasts at that time featured artistic montages, displaying specimens known as paradis d’oiseaux” (“birds in paradise”).

This trend was symptomatic of a taste for romance, curiosity and travel, and was inspired by the growing knowledge of birds disseminated in richly illustrated ornithological publications. In turn, jewelry demonstrated an increasingly sophisticated view of ornithological diversity, morphology and behavior, allowing the creations to reveal a certain stylistic audacity while remaining faithful to the bird’s appearance and beauty.

 

The Exhibition

The exhibition takes visitors on a journey between earth and sky, recreating the abundance of birds typically found in artistic depictions of paradise. It presents a number of iconic bird brooches created among others by Baugrand, Cartier, Mauboussin, Mellerio, Rouvenat, Sterlé and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as works from prestigious public collections representing birds on land, perched on branches and in flight, in the form of paintings, drawings, engravings and ceramics.

The selected pieces offer visitors an insight into jewelry creation and the arts in general, highlighting the artist’s work around the representation of the bird’s body, plumage and movement, from the naturalistic to the stylized, alternating between a faithful depiction of nature and formal audacity, between realism and symbolism.

 

Curators

This exhibition is curated by Joëlle Garcia, Curator in charge of the Cultural Diffusion and Mediation Service for the Libraries of the Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle, and to Marion Millet, Scientific Coordinator for the City of Versailles.

 

Catalogue

The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue, under the supervision of Guillaume Glorieux, Director of Education and Research at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts.


 

May 15 to July 13, 2019
Open Monday to Saturday, 12 pm to 7 pm

Free admission

L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
31, rue Danielle Casanova, 75001 Paris


  • Boivin, Rooster brooches, 1950
    Yellow gold, emeralds, diamonds/
    Yellow gold, rubies, emeralds, sapphires
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Skiing swan brooch, 19th century
    Gold, sapphires, diamonds, pearl, enamel
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Peacock brooch circa 1900
    Small RD diamonds, large RD diamond, platinum
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Bird brooch, 19th century
    Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, silver on gold,
    tremblant mechanism
    Private collection
    © Studio Sébert–photographes, Laurent Legendre


  • Peacock brooch
    Small RD diamonds, large RD diamond, platinum
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Peacock brooch, circa 1890
    Enamel and white pearl droplet, yellow gold
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Charles Mellerio, Peacock Brooch, circa 1910
    Diamonds, enamel
    Private collection
    © Studio Sébert–photographes, Laurent Legendre


  • Charles Mellerio, Peacock Brooch, circa 1910
    Diamonds, enamel
    Private collection
    © Studio Sébert–photographes, Laurent Legendre


  • Birds in Paradise Exhibition
    Birds brooches
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Sterlé, Boivin
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Birdsin Paradise Exhibition
    Birds brooches
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Sterlé, Boivin
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Birds in Paradise Exhibition
    Birds brooches
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Mauboussin & Baugrand
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Birds in Paradise Exhibition
    Birds brooches
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Sterlé
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Gustave Baugrand, Peacock brooches, circa 1865
    Pearl, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, yellow gold
    Private collection
    © Studio Sébert
    photographes, Laurent Legendre


  • Gustave Baugrand, Peacock brooches, circa 1865
    Pearl, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, yellow gold
    Private collection
    © Studio Sébert–photographes, Laurent Legendre


  • Gustave Baugrand, Peacock brooches, circa 1865
    Pearl, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, yellow gold
    Private collection


  • Pierre-François de Wailly (1775-1852),
    Twelve-wiredbird-of-paradise or Nebuleux Vaillant
    (Seleucis melanoleuca, Daudin), 1811
    Watercoloron vellum
    Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris,
    Vellum collections, portfolio 79, folio 108
    © Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle / Dist. RMN -Grand Palais / Tony Querrec.


  • Mauboussin, Bird of Paradise brooch [quetzal], 1960s
    Chased and guilloché yellow gold, sapphires,
    engraved emeralds, turquoises, diamonds and rubies
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Mauboussin, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Nicolas Robert (1614-1685),
    Himalayan monal (Lophophorus impejanus Latham),
    17th century
    Watercoloron vellum
    Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris,
    Vellum collections, portfolio 81, folio 9
    © Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle / Dist. RMN -Grand Palais / Tony Querrec


  • Bird of paradise in Recueil de dessins de plantes et d’oiseaux [Collection of Drawings of Plants and Birds],
    17th century
    Drawing on paper
    Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris, Ms 343
    ©Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle


  • Attributed to Pierre Gourdelle,
    Paon [Peacock] in Recueil de figures d’oiseaux en couleurs [Collection of bird images in color],
    16th century
    Watercolor on paper, fanfare binding with the crest of the Abbey of Saint-Victor library in Paris
    Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris, Ms 1914
    ©Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds and ruby zoisite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, and labradorite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds, ruby eye, pezzottaite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre-François de Wailly (1775-1852),
    Twelve-wired bird-of-paradise or Nebuleux at rest
    (Seleucis melanoleuca, Daudin), July 1811
    Watercoloron vellum
    Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris,
    Vellumcollections, portfolio 79, folio 109
    © Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle / Dist. RMN -Grand Palais / Tony Querrec.


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Birdclip, 1963
    Platinum, yellow gold, sapphires, rubies, emeralds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    Photo: P. Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Owl clip, 1970
    Platinum, yellow gold, emerald, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Birds clip, 1946
    Platinum, yellow gold, rubies, sapphires, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Drawing of “swallow” clips, circa 1930
    Gouache on gray paper
    Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Design for a “bird of paradise” clip, 1942
    Gouache on paper
    Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
    © Van Cleef& Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Drawing depicting “allegories of peace” clips, circa 1945
    Gouache on paper
    Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Birds in Paradise poster


  • Van Cleef& Arpels, Birdsclip, 1946
    Platinum, yellow gold, rubies, sapphires, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Bird of paradise brooch, 1927
    Platinum, onyx, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Bird brooch, circa 1880
    Diamonds, rubies, pearls, silver on gold Private
    collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Bird brooch, circa 1880
    Diamonds, rubies, pearls, silver on gold Private
    collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Peacock brooch circa 1900
    Small RD diamonds, large RD diamond, platinum
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Cartier, Peacock brooch, 1947
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Peacock brooch, circa 1890
    Enamel and white pearl droplet, yellow gold
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Cartier, Peacock brooch, 1947
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Bird of paradise clip, 1942
    Yellow gold, platinum, rubies, sapphires, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    Photo: Bertrand Moulin © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Mauboussin, Bird of Paradise brooch [quetzal], 1960s
    Chased and guilloché yellow gold, sapphires,
    engraved emeralds, turquoises, diamonds and rubies
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Mauboussin, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Owl clip, 1970
    Platinum, yellow gold, emerald, diamonds
    Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    © Van Cleef & Arpels


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds, rubyeye, pezzottaite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, shell, diamonds, sapphire, coral and onyx
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Platinum, yellowgold, diamonds and ruby zoisite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, coral, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds and azurite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch [toucan]
    Yellow gold, platinum, coral, diamonds, ruby eye
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, and labradorite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Coral, diamonds, yellow gold, platinum
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Bird brooch,
    Diamonds, emeralds and onyx beads, green feathers, platinum
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Cartier, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Marchak, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, rubies, emeralds, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, labradorite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, topaz
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds and labradorite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds and labradorite
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, baroque pearl
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, diamonds, engraved emeralds, turquoise
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Bird brooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, amethyst, topaz, aquamarine and diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Van Cleef& Arpels, Bird brooch, circa 1927
    Diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Cartier, Peacock brooch, 1947
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, cultured pearls, diamonds, ruby eye, rubelite
    Private collection Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, topaz
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly


  • Pierre Sterlé, Birdbrooch
    Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds
    Private collection
    Photo: Benjamin Chelly

All images are copyrighted to L’ECOLE, School of Jewelry Arts (unless otherwise stated in the photo caption).